lone surfer stands on board riding inside of a wave

activity barnacles barrel barreled blue brown camp catch caught coast coastline cold crash crest cutback danger dangerous dry drysuit dude environment environmental etiquette excercise excitement exciting fin finless gear hang hobby hydrosphere inside kook lineup nature outdoor paddling paraphernalia people period plexiglass pocket pop practice practicing protection quiver ride set shore shorebreak shoreline skill skilled sports sporty spray spume stoked suit surfing swell swim swimming temperatures train training walking wet whitewater